5th - 8th Janaury 2011 - Durham

5th January 2011 - Off to Durham

Note to self - previous entries about trips to the ancient city of Durham have always lacked most , if not all details (but have come very close to it) so note to self to be more careful this time around.

Anyway, its 14.32 and I've just joined the train heading NE for the annual trip to the work related event I attend up there at this time of year. As the old saying goes, all work makes Jack a dull boy so the focus for the evenings of the visit is also towards beer sampling although as the above indicates, recollection of these visits often gets lost in the mist of time. Therefore I'm starting this entry whilst listening to one of several beer related podcasts I’ve gathered enroute - whether such care will remain come Friday who can say?

Arriving early at the departure point it either sit by a cold, damp platforms (which may be slippery a tannoy announcement informs me) or go and sit in a nice warm pub. Difficult decision especially having tested how slippery the pIatform actually was(n’t) so its over to the Tweedale and a pint of Bass.

15.46 – we’ve got to Wakefield on approach to which I noted Clarke’s Brewery – one to research…

Anyway, having checked in to the Three Tuns Hotel and unpacked it’s time to hit Durham (steadily!)

Passing the Council workers taking down the Xmas decorations, food called first and as is tradition for the first night up here then its off to the Indian, but wait, what’s this, I’m walking past the Rajpooth and instead end up at the Capital a little further up Claypath. This is an Inidian I’ve looked at going to in previous years but have always pulled up short at the aforementioned Rajpooth.

Fueled up with a large Chef’s special kebab (it’s a combination of all the other starters that are either a kebab or a barge), followed up with Chicken Tikka Dhansak and finally a well presented kulfi (pistachio as they don’t have mango) and washed down with a Cobra after which it out into the night – let’s hope for some local brews!

First port of call was the Bishop Mill, a Lloyds offering from Wetherspoon where the most local beer was Ringwood’s Fortyniner (also on was Exmoor’s Exmass (although a Big Lamp beer was promised so perhaps a possibility later in the week.)

Next a new pub. I’d see an advert for the Head of Steam bar (part of the North Eastern chain of bars and thank goodness, they have a couple of north eastern beers from Wylam including their porter so it has to be Wylam’s Haugh Porter, a brew I found to be quite distinct chewy bite and with a fruity finish. Whilst there I hear a local (going by their accent) recommending a carvery in the Stoke-on-Trent area and therefore time to duck. The Head of Steam is difficult to describe. Tucked away in a yard (as opposed to down an alley) it offers a range of real ales and a good selection of Belgium ales so may well get visited again. Emphahsis is on music and there is a range of Liveaid memorability (albeit copies of the programmes and ticket.) Then again there is the Victoria and the Dun Cow planned for Friday.

Time is pressing so its back towards the hotel noting the council workers still taking down the Christmas decorations at something well past 10pm.

Final port of call (I thought) would be the Half Moon. The local Camra branch’s web site had proclaimed recently that an additional hand pull had been installed so eager I was to sample some durham beers which I recall this place always has. Indeed they have a new one for me in the shape of Durham’s Ravelation which I sipped whilst reviewing the collection of bell shaped whisky decanters. Should I stop to try the others? Given that the choice was Fuller’s London Pride, Tim Taylor’s Landlord and Marston’s EPA, I decided against it and the staff were tidying up anyway so its back to the Hotel, and a shift half of Stella watching Match of Day before retiring for the night.


6th January

Although a quiet night, I was able to visit the Court Inn where the beer is good albeit at £3.40 a pint. This time I opted for Daelside’s Cloggin Betty. They also have Mordue’s Gaol Ale although I have sampled this beer here last year. There is a good choice of food so this is a potential starting point tomorrow night.


7th January

Friday night arrives and so a final chance to sample some north eastern brews. Earlier today I’d agree to join up with a couple of other s for tea (Julian and Ester from University of Lincoln) who were also staying through to Saturday morning and so having started with a half of Boddingtons in the Hotel we headed over the road and the short distance to an Italian situated on the Elvet bridge. This always has a slippery surface when icey so we quickly abandoned plans to venture further. After eating I suggested the Dun Cow which met with agreement as they wanted a traditional local and so it was there we headed next for Castle Eden.

Next we headed to the Half Moon and as with Wednesday night it wa the Durham Relevation for me.

Finally we I suggested the Victoria Hotel and so we headed out to this wonderful Victorian pub. Not noted earlier was the fact that along with proper fires there are also bell pushes in the sitting rooms and the indicator board in the bar. Here I had a final beer in the shape of Big Lamp Bitter.

So although I didn’t make the Court Inn tonight, all was not last and as always cheers Durham for a wonderful couple of days (and also Julian and Ester) and hopefully see all three of you next year.